(lively music) - This time on "Retro Tennessee Crossroads," we'll take you on an exciting whitewater journey down the Hiwassee; Jerry Thompson will show us Tennessee's smallest library; and why am I inside the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum?

We'll tell you, coming right up.

(lively music) (lively music ending) (lively music) Hi everyone, I'm Miranda Cohen.

And welcome to another season of "Retro Tennessee Crossroads."

We'll be taking you back in time with some of the earliest stories in the Crossroads vaults.

And we begin with what is now a very familiar name in Nashville, Hatch Show Print.

It is just inside the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum.

But as our Joe Elmore shows us in our very first story, it wasn't always so world famous.

- [Joe] Under towering symbols of Nashville's modern day progress sits a tiny old shop where Jim Sherraden goes to work.

(doorbell clanging) He holds down the fort at perhaps the last bastion of Nashville's old Printer's Alley district.

You see, Jim is the curator and sole printer of Hatch Show Print, an important but somewhat secret Nashville landmark.

- The shop is interesting because it is an actual show poster print shop circa 1920.

And you'll find a lot of things aren't disturbed about the shop.

It still looks and feels the way as it used to.

(gentle music) - [Joe] It's pretty quiet now but soon after Will Hatch opened the place in 1927, it became a thriving major center of show business advertising.

- Our best client probably would have been Silas Green from New Orleans which was a traveling minstrel show that weathered in Valdosta, Georgia.

It was a show that traveled all over the southeast.

A lot of Harlem's most prominent actors cut their teeth in a show such as that.

Rabbit Foot Minstrels would have been another one.

(lively music) - [Joe] Throughout the '30s and '40s, minstrel shows played in every US town, offering a mixture of comedy, music, and, of course, chorus girls.

(lively music continues) This one even had an all-girl band.

But another group of Big Hatch customers closer to home was here at the nearby Ryman Auditorium.

(lively music) The Grand Ole Opry stars' bread and butter were the shows they played in towns around the country where people faithfully listened to the Opry on radio.

And Hatch posters were the main means of getting the word out.

- Minnie Pearl, I think, said it best when she said, "all you had to do is send a Hatch poster to the town that you were playing in, and that was all the advertisement you needed."

- [Joe] Today, the shop looks pretty much the way it did back in 1925 when Will Hatch took it over.

One of the things that makes it so special are these giant wooden blocks.

Now imagine he had to hand carve these himself.

They used both sides during World War II to save wood.

(lively music) The place has treasures of rare old typefaces, hand carved blocks, all sizes, and photo engravings.

But for the most part, the old presses have been quiet since the Hatch heyday ended in the '50s.

- Once segregation came into the limelight in the mid-'50s, I don't think there was the same romanticism to go into an all black minstrel show, which was the largest user of posters like this.

So 10 shows were more expensive to produce.

By the time the mid-'50s came along, television was a fascinating thing.

And, of course, people started advertising on radio and television more than via the show poster.

(scrubber clattering) - [Joe] Finally, Jim has got the old Hatch presses humming again.

(machinery whirring) Using Will Hatch's original wood blocks, he's reprinting some of the prized old posters and show bills while helping develop this old landmark into a living and working museum.

(machinery clanging) - [Jim] And this is the Silas Green from New Orleans, one sheet.

You remember we were talking about how Silas Green was the shop's best client?

- [Joe] Yes, yes.

- [Jim] This is a very good example of the kind of carvings, I call her my sandwich girl.

And do keep in mind, Joe, that the Silas Green show was always clean and always good.

- [Joe] It says right there.

- It says right there.

(roller clanging) You're a graphic artist or a art designer walking in the door, it's gonna be a piece of art.

If you're a historian, it's gonna be a piece of history.

I think it covers all areas.

And it's interesting to Nashville, first of all, because of Nashville's broad printing basis.

And this is the only shop of its kind that's left, I think in the United States.

- [Joe] Some of the recreations have already found a market, such as this one advertising a young Elvis Presley in concert, and this one promoting a New Year's concert that Hank Williams didn't live to play.

The old shop may have been saved for future generations, thanks to a new lease arrangement with the Country Music Foundation.

- Well, we're operating at under a long-term loan from Opryland USA, the owner of the company.

It's a 10 year loan and within that period of time, we can do about anything we want to with the company other than sell it.

So what we're trying to do is really find what the audience is for the material that Hatch can produce.

And we're also trying to make sure that the material is preserved properly and that it's cataloged and that we understand a little bit more about what the holdings are than we did going in.

- [Joe] So someday, these prints may decorate the walls of offices and dens around the nation, and tourists may come here to relive a fascinating lost era when Hatch Show Print was at the heartbeat of American show business.

(lively music) - I hope that there is a place for Hatch Show Print in all of that new development.

That would please me.

And I think everybody that's been involved with Hatch throughout the 107 years, that would make us all happiest.

(lively music) - What an incredible story.

It is so amazing to see Hatch Show Print.

And they referenced in the story that it was a secret in Nashville at the time.

Well, it is no longer a secret.

It is one of the most iconic businesses in Music City.

And joining me now is Celine Aubry the director of Hatch Show Print.

Thank you so much for joining us.

- Thanks for coming and visiting us and thank you for those kind things.

I hope that there's a Hatch Poster on every wall in the city of Nashville, but if not, that's what we're working towards.

(laughing) - Celine, I thought it was so telling, you know, Joe Elmore mentioned in the story, maybe one day there will be a Hatch show print in offices, in apartments.

And today, designers are using them.

You are seeing them everywhere.

- I'm constantly surprised.

Not to talk over you, but.

- Ah, please do.

It's such an important part of Nashville's history.

So tell us, did you watch the piece?

And what did you think of that?

- I did.

And just walk us through- - I thought the shop was super quiet.

(laughing) I was like, where's all the activity, right?

Today, there's 11 of us on staff, designing and printing and working on work for customers from around the world.

And we also have an internship program that has up to four interns in the shop at a time.

So right now, there's 14 of us in the shop working today on posters and other projects that we're designing.

We have a massive gift shop, right next to the print shop, so people can come and purchase a little bit for their office or for their house or their den or what have you, or gifts, which is great.

And then we have a gallery across the hallway that features art that's sometimes made in the shop, but also from around the world as well that's, you know, in the theme of printmaking and color basically.

And we have an education program where we have people who come and take tours, people who are visiting the city, people who are new to the city.

They can spend an hour with us and learn about what happens here in the shop.

But also all of the stories, not all of them because that would probably take a multi-part documentary, but some of the stories that place Hatch in Nashville and how Hatch has, you know, thrived through the 145 years of its time here in Nashville.

- And our story, well our story talked about was it Will Hatch, taking it over in the '20s?

- He was the second generation.

- Oh, very interesting.

- So the shop opened in 1879 in Nashville.

Founded by two brothers, Charles and Herbert.

They moved to Nashville with their parents in 1875 and opened the shop four years later.

And their father had been a preacher and a printer in Wisconsin.

And I think they came to Nashville, Nashville was the fourth or fifth largest printing city at the time in America.

All of the American churches had their publishing and printing houses in Nashville.

So that's important, those two distinctions.

And so most Bibles, hymnals and other religious publications were actually published and printed in Nashville, and to this day in Tennessee, in the state of Tennessee.

And so 1879, those two brothers.

And then Charles' brother, or son, Will T. Hatch, took over the shop in 1922 or 3 when his dad passed away.

And so, built the purpose-built shop.

Was the first time the shop that was in the previous segment, that was the first time that the Hatch family had been able to sort of decide what the shop looked like.

So they built that shop for printing, having the typesetting in one area, and then all of the presses in another area and things like that.

And that's the shop that Jim started working in in the earlier '80s and was there in 1987, and surrounded by all of that history that he was able to absorb, and then pound the pavement and revive by working with local businesses to make posters again and things like that for live entertainment, all of the little clubs that were around Nashville and other places.

The shop just kept going through this being in a city that was a working city, an industry city, where people still needed things like tickets for spaghetti dinners, for church fundraisers, and working with local businesses and things like that.

So, it didn't take a lot to keep the shop going.

And then Jim came aboard and knew what gems were in the shop, but knew that it had more life in it yet.

And then he put his time in, pounding the pavement, getting the clubs that were here in Nashville in the late 20th century to advertise using Hatch posters again.

And so they were still advertising in the late 20th century.

- It's phenomenal.

It is absolutely such a phenomenal, such a historic story and such an important story to Nashville.

Almost 150 years.

- Yeah.

- So people see this story, they see the old story, and everyone has seen a Hatch show print.

So what can they do today?

How can they see it up close and personal?

How can they come here and take the tour, they see what you really do?

- They can come and take a tour.

We offer multiple tours a day.

They don't even have to actually take a tour.

Probably shouldn't say that but I suggest the tour because you're gonna get stories on the tour that you're not necessarily gonna hear.

But we do have one wall of our shop here in the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum that's just all glass.

And so you can see the best part of the process, the most colorful part of the process of making a poster, which is the printing of a poster.

All of our presses are situated along the window.

So you can see Monday through Friday what's happening, coming off of the presses, whether it's a show poster for someone appearing at the Ryman Auditorium or a conference poster for a business that has decided to come to Nashville this year for their conference.

And it runs the gamut from those things to items that we're printing to sell in our gift shop, that are more, you know, home-type items or gift items.

Yeah.

- Is certainly a must-see in Nashville.

And Celine, thank you so much for being a part of not only the Nashville landscape but of Tennessee Crossroads.

You go back 40 years with us, almost to the very beginning, one of the very first seasons.

- Yeah, it's wonderful too that these stories get shared.

There's so many more to tell.

- Now that was truly an incredible story, so much history.

And it is such a wonderful place to visit here in Music City.

Now this time of the year, it is probably a little too cool for most of us to be thinking about a whitewater canoe trip.

But way back in 1989, Elizabeth Page took a memorable trip down the Hiwassee.

So let's think warm thoughts as we dive into the water with her.

- The rivers of East Tennessee are well-known for their beauty.

This is Polk County, Tennessee, and behind me is the Hiwassee River.

Rivers are also known as a good source of recreation and that's why we're here to try some whitewater canoeing.

(lively music) Now, initially the thought of whitewater canoeing seems more than just a little bit frightening.

The site, however, of the Hiwassee River is nothing of the sort.

(gushing water) (birds chirping) While some sportsmen start early on the Hiwassee, others have to wait on the river to receive its daily supply of water from the Apalachia Dam.

That's when business really begins.

(lively music) (canoeists screaming) Harold Webb, lifetime resident of the Hiwassee, says that the river has not always been this popular.

- Pretty much mid-'60s, anyone floating in the river before that was maybe a troop of Boy Scouts once or twice a summer.

And now we still see Scouts but we see a lot of family groups, church groups, more rafting than canoers but that's really changing in the last few years.

- If you have a firm but not tight grip on the lower hand on the shaft of the paddle.

- [Elizabeth] No one advises that the novice attempt the river without training of some sort.

Classes are available through many sources.

The Tennessee Scenic Rivers Association was gracious enough to include me in their annual school.

Over 200 people met this particular weekend to hold classes on paddling the Hiwassee.

- Spread out because that gives you your balance.

- We teach safety from Beginner class on up.

We teach them self rescue, the preparation for a trip, the river trips, to try to prepare and get the right equipment.

- [Elizabeth] My class begins early morning on land with learning the basic strokes and techniques.

- Ah-ha, and you wanna keep it in the water until it gets to your body, about where your body is, and then you're gonna feather it out.

- [Elizabeth] After about an hour on land, we transfer to still water.

We practice on the water.

What grace!

And perfect.

And instructor Gina Deck is beginning to question her fate of having me in the canoe with her.

Then it's onto the whitewater.

- It's easy whitewater, beginning river.

It makes a good river for training people that haven't had a canoeing experience.

People that have paddled a lot like it because of this clean water, good scenery.

- [Elizabeth] Hundreds of people are hitting the Hiwassee in various ways this day; rafts, kayaks, inner tubes, and some very literally.

(water splashing) Our trip begins in the first rapids to go grey.

I like it.

Until our voyage is delayed by a certain visitor.

- See, there is a snake and I'm scared to death of snakes.

- Hurray, there's a snake in our boat!

(Elizabeth wailing) - [Canoeist] You see, it's eating a- - I've never had a snake in my boat before.

What did you do?

(Elizabeth whimpering) - [Elizabeth] Okay, so finally we're cool enough to go back on the river and the next rapids are really exciting.

Even the crew seems like they're having a good time.

(excited squeals) Dina is guiding me through each section of whitewater and I began to feel comfortable, even a little bit brave.

The trip lasts four hours and time flies.

I think it seems like a ride in an amusement park, each rapid is more exciting than the one before it and the trip peaks at the end with Devil Shoals.

Truly thrilling.

- [Canoeist] That's it!

[Elizabeth] Then it's all over with.

I'm physically tired but emotionally charged.

I'm very pleased with the accomplishment.

As other paddlers come off the river, the group heads back to camp and everyone seems happy.

- So as a beginner, today was one of those days where we got out and just started from square one.

- [Elizabeth] And how did it go?

- Real well!

Have a couple blisters.

(laughing) - [Elizabeth] Even initial doubters are feeling positive.

- I drove over this morning and decided, well, perhaps I'll just drive back.

But got into it and it was great.

Really had a great time.

- Dinner, more talk about the day's activities and preparation for more paddling the next day.

It kind of makes me sorry that I'm leaving.

The whole experience, from the down-to-earth people of Polk County to the beautiful Hiwassee River, from the lessons and hospitality of the Tennessee Scenic Rivers Association, to the trip itself, is relaxing, invigorating, and generally good for the mind.

Something that I am definitely looking forward to doing again.

Now that you've seen what it's like to paddle down the Hiwassee, maybe you'd like to try it too.

If not, just come enjoy it's beauty.

Either way, it's a great way to spend the weekend.

(rushing water) - Okay, so I am sure that that snake is still out there somewhere but it would still be a great trip and well worth it.

These days on the Hiwassee, there are many options and outfitters that will take you down the river regardless of your experience level.

And it would be so worth the drive and a great way to spend the day.

Onto our final story of the show.

Back in 1989, Jerry Thompson found what he dubbed as the nation's smallest library.

Here, he introduces us to the littlest library and to the incredible woman who founded it.

- This is Back Valley Road, it's Morgan County in East Tennessee.

Not a big place, not many people live here.

But about 33 years ago, people here decided it's time they had a library.

Now they didn't need anything big and fancy, they just needed something to meet their needs.

So they built this one, the nation's smallest library.

Dot Byrd is the librarian of the Back Valley Public Library.

She's the only one the small library has ever had.

She was there when it all began.

- We got the book deposit in the late '40s or early '50s.

And then the material was donated for a library in July of 1956.

- [Jerry] Now is this the original library that was built?

- Yes, that's the original building my husband and the kids and one or two neighbors and myself built it.

- How did you wind up with America's smallest library?

- Mrs. McGlothin bought the material and that's how much money she had to spend.

- [Jerry] And Mrs. McGlothin was a school teacher, is that right?

May McGlothin was a school teacher at Coalfield and the kids needed books.

And she had found out that they were available through the state from the Clinch-Powell Regional Library System.

But you had to have a building.

- [Jerry] So she provided the material and you provided the labor.

- And she was the only person that knew what size building it would build because the lumber was pre-cut.

- How big is your library?

How many square feet do you have?

- 30 I believe.

- 30 square feet?

- Yeah.

- That'll hold a thousand- - It's five or six.

- That's 30!

- Yeah.

- [Jerry] I believe that'll work.

Dot's husband, Perry, helps her with the upkeep of the library.

One of his jobs is making sure all the signs are in the proper place and clearly visible.

Sometimes it takes a whack or two with a hammer to get them just right.

Your wife said she reads everything and has forever.

Are you a big reader too?

- No.

No, sir.

I've spent 46 years looking at the back of a book.

She reads all the time.

- [Jerry] Is that right?

(laughing) And you just look at the back of the book- - Yeah, she's always got a book in her hand.

- [Jerry] All right.

- And most of it is filled with books.

- [Jerry] When Dot gets in her library, it's obvious, it's a labor of love.

She spends a lot of time down on her knees fitting books into every available space.

While it'll hold a thousand books, which incidentally is a greater density per square foot than the Library of Congress, it won't hold too many people.

- You can get three people in here if one of them is not too fat.

(chuckling) - [Jerry] Almost every library I've ever been in, the librarian urges everyone to be quiet.

How does Dot feel about being quiet?

- I couldn't care less.

Well, they're kids.

They can talk, sing, whatever.

Had a little girl here last night, well she's not little now, she's grown and married and got a child.

But she'd lay on her stomach on this floor every single afternoon when she wasn't in school and read every book she could get her hands on.

And her mother would call her when it was supper time.

Because we never have paid any attention to regular library hours.

When they can come and get books, I say, "Good, let them come and get them."

- [Jerry] And how about the range of books?

- Well, let me find them.

(door scraping) You've got everything from the "Bible" to "The Joy of Sex."

- While the size of the library may be small, the range of its books is everything but.

May, when you started this, and unfortunately there's still too many people that are illiterate, there weren't that many people could read back then, weren't there?

- There were.

But we've always only, when we started out, we called it Each One, Teach One.

And the kids themselves would try to help somebody else.

Now, at the present time, our daughter takes some of the books and teaches in her home some of the kids in college that are having trouble reading.

And some of the high school kids, they come to her house, she teaches them.

- [Jerry] Well, you've provided a tremendous service over the years.

- Well, it served its purpose.

Because when we started, books were not available everywhere you turned.

And people didn't have the money to go to the store and buy them.

(gentle music) - With books that can take a person to the far reaches of the world, and a bountiful supply of beautiful flowers all nestled in the beautiful hills between Coalfield and Oliver Springs, the Back Valley Public Library has brought untold hours of enjoyment and adventure to an untold number of people over more than three decades.

The nation's smallest library started small and it stayed small.

Dot Byrd gave it life 33 years ago and it's been a part of her life ever since.

But it may be the smallest; to the two or three generations of people who used it, it's been a very big part of their life.

(lively music) - What an incredible place and what a vision she had.

Now, unfortunately, the Back Valley Library is long gone.

But I'm sure those whose lives were touched by Dot and all of those wonderful books remember it fondly.

Well, that's all the time we have for this episode.

Thanks for joining us into a deep dive into the Tennessee Crossroads vault.

And be sure to download the free PBS app where you can watch all of your favorite episodes of this show and many others.

Please join us again next time.

We'll see you then.

(lively music) (lively music ending) (lively theme music)